Seasonal Lawn feeds.

– what should you give to a lawn and when

Feeding your lawn with the right fertilizers at the right times is key to keeping it healthy, lush, and resilient year-round. The type of feed and timing depend on your grass type (cool-season or warm-season) and local climate, but I’ll break it down into a general guide with seasonal specifics.

These recommendations focus on long-term lawn vitality—building strong roots, improving soil health, and reducing dependency on excessive chemicals.

Acre or more & Landscaping.

Grass Types and Feeding Basics

Cool-Season Grasses (e.g., Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, ryegrass): These thrive in cooler climates (northern U.S., parts of Europe) and grow most actively in spring and fall. They need more feeding during those seasons.

Warm-Season Grasses (e.g., Bermuda, Zoysia, St. Augustine): Common in warmer regions (southern U.S., subtropics), these peak in summer and need nutrients aligned with their active growth then.

Fertilizer Types: Look for a balanced N-P-K (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium) ratio on the bag (e.g., 10-10-10 or 20-5-10). Nitrogen promotes leaf growth, phosphorus strengthens roots, and potassium boosts overall resilience. Slow-release granular fertilizers are best for steady, long-term feeding.

Always test your soil first (kits are cheap at garden centres) to know its pH and nutrient gaps—ideal pH is 6.0–7.0. Adjust with lime (to raise pH) or sulfur (to lower it) before feeding.

Lawn Works

Seasonal Feeding Schedule

Spring (March–May)

What to Feed:

Cool-Season: Use a high-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 20-0-10) to kickstart growth after winter dormancy. Add a pre-emergent weed control (like one with crabgrass preventer) if weeds are an issue.

Warm-Season: Apply a light, balanced feed (e.g., 10-10-10) as these grasses wake up from dormancy—don’t overdo nitrogen yet.

When: Early spring for cool-season (March–April) once soil temps hit 50°F (10°C). For warm-season, wait until late spring (April–May) when grass fully greens up.

How Much: About 0.5–1 lb of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft—check the bag for exact rates.

Why: Spring feeding fuels initial growth, repairs winter damage, and sets roots up for summer stress. For cool-season lawns, this is a major feeding window.

Long-Term Benefit: Strong early growth builds a dense turf that crowds out weeds and stores energy for hotter months.

Summer (June–August)

What to Feed:

Cool-Season: Go light—use a slow-release, low-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 15-0-10) or an organic option like compost or milorganite. Avoid heavy feeding in heat waves.

Warm-Season: This is their prime time—use a high-nitrogen feed (e.g., 20-5-10) to support vigorous summer growth. Include potassium for drought resistance.

When: Early summer (June) for both, but warm-season lawns can get a second dose in mid-summer (July) if growth is strong. Skip feeding cool-season lawns in extreme heat (above 85°F/29°C).

How Much: 0.5–1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft, adjusted for grass type and weather.

Why: Warm-season grasses thrive in heat and need nutrients now. Cool-season grasses slow down, so overfeeding risks burn or fungal issues—less is more.

Long-Term Benefit: Proper summer feeding prevents burnout, builds drought tolerance, and keeps warm-season lawns competitive against weeds.

Fall (September–November)

What to Feed:

Cool-Season: This is the most critical feeding. Use a balanced or high-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 20-8-8) early, then a high-potassium one (e.g., 10-0-20) later to prep for winter.

Warm-Season: Apply a light, balanced feed (e.g., 10-10-10) early in fall as growth slows, focusing on potassium for root strength before dormancy.

When: Cool-season: Early fall (September) and late fall (October–November, 6–8 weeks before frost). Warm-season: Early fall (September) only—no late feeding needed.

How Much: 1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft for cool-season (split across two applications); 0.5 lb for warm-season.

Why: Fall feeding for cool-season grasses boosts root growth and energy storage for a strong spring comeback. Warm-season grasses just need a little help winding down.

Long-Term Benefit: Deep roots from fall feeding mean better winter survival, quicker spring recovery, and less thinning over years.

Winter (December–February)

What to Feed:

Cool-Season: None—grass is dormant. If you missed late fall, a very light organic feed (e.g., compost top-dressing) in mild climates can work, but it’s optional.

Warm-Season: None—dormancy rules here too.

When: Avoid fertilizing in winter unless you’re in a subtropical zone with active growth (rare).

Why: Feeding dormant grass wastes nutrients and risks runoff into waterways. Let the lawn rest.

Long-Term Benefit: Skipping winter feeding preserves soil balance and prevents nutrient leaching, keeping your lawn’s ecosystem stable.

Additional Tips for Long-Term Success

Organic Options: Compost, manure, or products like milorganite (slow-release organic fertilizer) improve soil health over time, reducing reliance on synthetic feeds. Apply ¼-inch layers in spring or fall.

Water After Feeding: Lightly water (0.25–0.5 inches) post-application to soak nutrients into the soil—don’t wash them away with heavy watering.

Avoid Overfeeding: Too much fertilizer burns grass, compacts soil, and pollutes groundwater. Stick to recommended rates and skip if the lawn looks lush already.

Adjust for Climate: In wet regions, cut back on nitrogen to avoid runoff. In dry areas, pair feeding with deep watering to maximize uptake.