Aeration.

Here’s how it works:

Step-by-Step Aeration Process

1. Check the Soil Condition:
   • Test if your lawn needs aerating. Push a screwdriver or garden fork into the soil—if it’s hard to get in more than a couple of inches, the soil’s compacted. You can also look for signs like water pooling on the surface, thin grass, or a hard, crusty feel underfoot.
2. Prepare the Lawn:
   • Mow the grass to a short, even height to make aeration easier and avoid clogging tools. Water the lawn lightly a day or two before—damp soil is softer and easier to penetrate, but avoid soaking it into mud. Clear away any debris like sticks or stones.
3. Choose Your Tool:
   • Manual Aerator: For small lawns, use a hand aerator (like a pitchfork-style tool) or a hollow-tine aerator. You push it into the ground to pull out little plugs of soil.
   • Spike Aerator: A simpler option with solid spikes that poke holes without removing soil—works for mildly compacted areas.
   • Core Aerator (Powered): For bigger lawns, rent or buy a gas- or electric-powered core aerator. It has hollow tines that extract small soil plugs, making it the most effective method.
4. Aerate the Lawn:
   • Start at one end and work in straight lines across the lawn. With a manual tool, push it into the soil every 4-6 inches, wiggling it a bit to widen the holes. For a machine, walk it steadily over the lawn, overlapping each pass slightly. Focus extra attention on high-traffic spots where compaction is worst. If using a core aerator, it’ll leave little soil plugs (cores) scattered on the surface—that’s normal.
5. Handle the Aftermath:
   • If you used a core aerator, you can leave the soil plugs on the lawn—they’ll break down naturally in a few weeks and add nutrients back to the soil. Or rake them up if you want a tidier look. For spike or manual aeration, there’s no cleanup since no soil is removed.
6. Follow-Up Care:
   • Spread a thin layer of compost, sand, or topsoil over the lawn and work it into the holes with a rake—this improves soil structure and feeds the grass. Overseed if the lawn’s patchy; the holes give seeds a perfect spot to settle. Water lightly afterward to kickstart recovery, then keep the soil moist (but not soggy) for a week or two.

Timing and Tips

• When: Early spring or early autumn are ideal—grass is active and can heal fast. Avoid summer heat or winter dormancy.
• How Often: Once a year is usually enough for most lawns; twice if it’s heavily used or clay-heavy soil.
• Depth: Aim for holes 2-3 inches deep (5-7 cm). Shallower won’t do much; deeper might stress the roots.
• Don’t Overdo It: Too many holes too close together can weaken the lawn. Space them 4-6 inches apart.

Why It Works